When it comes to diecasting, the resin technique is fairly new in the market. As a collector, I was so curious that I need to make deep research into the topic. I saw the thoughts of others between resin vs. diecast models which has been going for a while. They want to find out which model is better than the other and why. The question is whether the resin model is better than the traditional diecast.
When comparing resin and the traditional diecast models, it is important to know what are their strengths over each other. Resin models will generally provide better details and they are easier to paint. Traditional diecast models on the other hand have stronger joints and allow more movement.
The question of whether the newer resin or the traditional diecast has one side of modelers preferring traditional diecast and the other supporting the newer resin. This leaves many people still wondering which is model is better than the other.
In this blog post, you‘ll get my comprehensive research about this topic and get to know which is better than the other. Moreover, you will know what reasons make one better than the other. You’ll also have my take on this topic.
Is resin better than diecast?
Resin is better than diecast if we are talking about resin’s ability to produce better-detailed models such as accurate curves and complex shapes. However, when it comes to maneuverability, flexibility, and popularity, traditional diecast wins.
The answer here depends on our preference as a modeler or collector. You will learn here about the two models, then it is up to you to determine which one is better than the other.
Both resin and diecast are ideal models, and each has its strengths and weakness. Many collectors prefer the diecast models as they are more articulated.
They have stronger connectors hence allowing movement of the joints. Although the resin models can allow movement, diecasts allow higher levels of movement.
On the other hand, the resin has the advantage of exceedingly fine detailing and a level of sharpness that is unrivaled, but this is also a drawback. Because of the finer features, resin models are more delicate, and as a result, they rarely have any articulation.
As you can see, it is not easy to tell which is a better model, better resin, and diecast. They have both pros and cons. If you have been confused about whether to buy resin or diecast, look out for features in that model and consider resin or diecast as the last option.
More so, be sure you understand what you would like to see in the model you are looking for even before starting to search for it.
For a more detailed article about resin diecast, here is a link to my other article: What is a Resin diecast?
Are Resin model cars good?
Resin model cars are good because they can be easily molded into complex shapes and sizes. This ability makes high-quality models compared to the old diecasting techniques. However, take note that most resin models are made up of plastic resin which makes them more fragile than metal diecasts.
The resin model cars are deemed good as they are the best option even for the manufacturers when they want to create an exclusive short run.
They are good in the production of miniatures on a small scale. Most collectors prefer resin as the production is limited, thus raising their value.
In comparison to diecast metal, resin is a relatively recent material used for scale model cars. It grew popular among manufacturers as many collectors sought out less well-known automotive models.
One particular advantage of resin diecasts aside from their shape is their prevention of zinc pests. When we are talking about traditional diecast, it is mostly using zinc which can distort or crumble models due to aging.
This makes older models using the traditional diecasting harder to maintain compared to the newer resin diecast.
Another reason why resin is good is this.
Production switched to resin to create them in smaller batches but soon realized there were other benefits to that creation method.
It also addresses another common collector concern: the requirement for the model car to be as accurate, detailed, and accurate as possible.
Resin plastic is significantly better at this than diecast metal when it comes to manufacturing detailed model cars.
Considering resin models have a greater variation than diecast metal models due to lower production quantities, resin models offer a greater variety than diecast metal models. Collectors who desire to expand their collections will often benefit from resin scale model vehicles.
Are Diecast model cars good?
Diecast model cars are good. They are worthy collectors to many collectors because they are high-quality model cars featuring accuracy and detail. Moreover, they are valuable model cars. They are a good investment as diecast value appreciates every day.
Additionally, diecast cars are more exquisite to details. The doors can open wide, even some to the roof. They feature luxury cars making diecast model cars good for someone who loves collecting model cars featuring diecast cars.
The material used to make the diecast model cars makes them feel heavy on the hard and indication they are high quality made up of quality material.
What people miss in traditional diecasting is not only that their joints are very flexible and can be easily moved, they are also more sturdy because they are made of real metals.
While it is easy to opt for resin diecasts because it seems very good at details, most forget that most resin diecasts use plastic as their resin.
I believe that metal would still be good for the long term. However, you have to take note that you need proper storage for your models, it is good to keep them in a place where the temperature doesn’t change a lot.
But I think I’m getting ahead of myself. But I want people to know that resin is just another diecasting technique that makes them technically also diecast.
Note: I am getting some concerns on my recommended storage for diecast models so that they last long. Since I am always speaking about temperature fluctuations can harm your model.
Ideally, keep them in a cool place. Do not put them on metal objects since metal can easily absorb heat.
Note (Again): I am getting emails asking for my personal recommendation. Alright, here it is.
I have 2 options for you. The reason why 2 is because it depends on your preference. One is for showing off while maintaining them, and another is purely for maintaining.
This one prevents light to prevent damage to the paint. Many people don’t know but sunlight or plain light can actually harm a model car’s paint in the long run. Plus, it is made of wood to prevent any temperature fluctuations.
This is considered to be more balanced since you can show off your models to visitors. But do not put all the models tightly packed together. The reason is these models are still made of metals which is a conductor of heat. My recommendation is only 1 model per slot.
What are the differences between Resin and Diecast Models?
The following are some of the differences between the diecast and resin model cars.
|Resin Models||Diecast Models|
|Can make smaller parts||Can’t make smaller parts|
|Less Durable||More durable|
|Highly Detailed||Less Detailed|
|No Zinc Pest||With Zinc Pest|
|Ideal for Smaller Models||Ideal for Larger Models|
|Silicone Mold||Metal Mold|
Modeling of parts
Resin and diecast models differ as they are made using different materials, and one can make small parts while the other cannot. The material used to manufacture the resin models can make small parts, while the material used to manufacture the diecast model cannot make small materials.
The ability to manufacture small parts also brings out the difference in scale as resin models are huge compared to diecast models.
The diecast models are more durable than the resin models because they are made using stronger material. The resin models are made using less strong material. Thus they are more fragile compared to diecast models.
Resin cars are more detailed than diecast cars. The reason is that the material used to manufacture resin can be used to manufacture smaller parts compared to the one used to manufacture the diecast models.
Availability of models
Resin models have a greater variety than diecast metal models because there are more models available. Collectors who desire to expand their collections will often benefit from resin scale model vehicles.
However, there are more diecast metal models since they can easily be made in scale.
The miniature car collection resin models are often the best way to produce an exclusive short-term from manufacturers.
Metal diecast is a time-consuming process that does not lend itself well to small-scale production. As a result, collectors seeking exclusivity frequently resort to resin model automobiles, which are created in lower quantities.
Resin and diecast differ in terms of production. Die-cast metal models can be created in larger quantities because they are mold injected.
As a result of the stronger solid metal mold that is employed, many more models may be manufactured, lowering the cost of each unit. However, due to the hard structure of the mold from which the model is formed, there is a deficit in details, as previously stated.
In comparison, silicone mold resin often requires more time; the silicone mold can potentially tear/rip if mishandled, and this raises the cost and reduces the resin models’ output amount. Also, resin models have better detail; the silicone allows for smaller gaps and even underbelly features.
“Only the things I love”
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So, here are the things I love when taking care of my Diecast Models.
Cleaning the Models
The first we are going to talk about is cleaning the models.
- Air Brush – For me, this is the best since it not just removes dust but you can use it in painting/clear coating.
- Air Duster – This is a good alternative to Airbrush
- Normal Brush – If you are short on budget, you can use a normal brush. However, make sure that the brush has soft bristles because there are some hard brushes than can cause scratches. That’s why I recommended a good brush that can do the job properly.
Cleaning and Shining Hacks
Well, here are some of my cleaning hacks for removing scratches, oxidation, and so much more.
- Removing Decal Adhesive – Use Goo Gone on those hard-to-remove decal adhesives. It works fast and works like charm!
- Waxing and Polishing – Here is something a lot of people don’t know. Waxing protects the clear coat and paint while polishing shines the model. Instead of buying it separately, use a 2 in 1 to save money. Get this instead.
- Beginner Wax – The wax I recommended earlier is good and provides the best results based on my experience. But a beginner might have a problem especially if they’re not good at applying wax. Solid wax reaching hard to reach surface can be hard to remove. You have two choices here. One is to use a qtips to reach those surfaces, another is to use a liquid wax I recommended.
- Cleaning Wheels, Rubber, Plastic – Do not forget that rubber and plastic surface are quite different, especially in the cleaning process. Just wiping it down won’t do the job. That’s why I use Meguiar’s Vinyl and Rubber Cleaner and Conditioner. Works like charm!
- Make the Wheels Shine! – Making our models look good won’t be complete without tiny details such as shiny wheels! Do not forget this because however small this is, the difference can be as big as night and day.
- Remove Scratches Easily – Tiny scratches are not the end for your model. Here is a simple trick I’ve been using to make my models look scratch-free even without repainting. Use T-Cut.
Painting the Models
Make sure when you paint models, have these ready.
- Tape – A tape is important if you are painting a straight line. Furthermore, it will prevent your paint to scatter on other parts. I recommend Tamiya Tape since it is really made for models. Furthermore, they stick really well preventing paint splatters.
- Brush (Beginner) – Find a good set of brushes to paint your models. Of course, you can opt for an airbrush but it’s quite expensive.
- Airbrush (Intermediate/Expert) – This will yield a significantly better result than an ordinary brush because you can easily spray the paint evenly. I recommend this if you know what you’re doing.
- Stand(Optional) – Stands are good because it can be hard to manually hold the models while painting. It is optional but in my opinion, the price is well worth it for the comfort it gives.
- Drop Cloths – Drop Cloths will protect your surroundings from the paint.
- Primer – The most common beginner mistake I see is painting models without any Primer. A primer will prevent imperfections such as bubbles or paint not sticking to your models. It is a small price to pay for quality results.
- Clear Coat – A clear coat will protect the paint of your models. This will make the paint last longer. Also, it is the one responsible for making your models shine.
Of course, you can’t do painting properly without paint. So here are the ones I recommend.
- Acrylic Paint – Good for beginners because it dries quickly. However, it doesn’t produce results as good as enamel paint.
- Enamel Paint – Provides a good quality finish and longer-lasting paint. However, it takes longer to dry and requires expertise to use.
- Simple Wood Cabinet – While it doesn’t let you display your models, wooden cabinets are good storage for these models. For one, they are not heat conductors which means that the temperature inside will remain constant and remain cool. Furthermore, they prevent light from reaching the models which can cause oxidation.
- Clear Cabinet with Lock – If you want to display your models, then I recommend this. It closes so dust won’t easily get to your models. I also recommend you don’t put more than 1 model in each compartment since metals are good conductors of heat.
So you want to show off your models to others? Well, I got you covered.
Here is my beginner-friendly model photography tutorial that teaches everything from taking pictures to the editing process.
You will also see me doing hands-on photography in that tutorial.