One of the exciting facts a Hot Wheel fan will stumble upon is the 1969 Hot Wheels series. It is not surprising considering that these models are one of the most expensive and one of the best collectibles made by Hot Wheels. How much are these old Hot Wheels worth? Well, I did some math to report the answer.
The 1969 Hot Wheels have an average or mean price of $7,841.10 while its median price is $375.50. The most expensive 1969 Hot Wheels is the Volkswagen Beach Bomb which is valued at $175,000.00 while the least expensive is the 1969 Lotus Turbine with only a book value of $75.00.
The data came from listing the 24 members of the 1969 Hot Wheels series and getting their highest and the lowest book value. After that, I got their average price then computed the mean and the median using data statistics. You can find the entire data table below.
How much are 1969 Hot Wheels worth?
The average price of the 1969 Hot Wheels is $7,841.10. The data came from listing 24 models in the 1969 Hot Wheels series and their current book value. After that, their average was computed using data statistics.
But now, let’s get to the fun part as I will now briefly introduce the 1969 Hot Wheels.
After replacing Harry Bradley, Ira Gilford designed the entire 1969 Hot Wheels line and a portion of the 1970 designs.
For some perspective, Harry Bradley designed the 1968 Hot Wheels. However, he went back to the automotive industry and suggested that Ira Gilford replace him. For more information regarding their history, see the last section of this blog post.
Ira Gilford also created the Heavyweights and many of the Spoilers during his tenure in the position, which lasted until early 1969 before he left for private consulting.
Howard Rees took over for Ira Gilford and led the department for eight months, designing many of the 1970 models before leaving to head up Mattel’s space toy division.
In 1969, 24 new models were introduced, including the Grand Prix line. Mattel also introduced the infamous Volkswagen Beach Bomb that year, and it is still one of the most sought-after castings today.
Bruce Pascal, an ardent Hot Wheels collector from Washington, DC, owns what is thought to be the most expensive Hot Wheels car in the world— the above-mentioned 1969 version of the “Beach Bomb” Volkswagen bus valued at up to $150,000.
Interestingly, the model was a failed experiment.
For Hot Wheels’ second year on the market, designers wanted to include a California-style model of the famous Volkswagen bus.
The original Hot Wheels “Beach Bomb” had lifelike proportions scaled down to 1/64 scale, as well as tiny surfboards, sticking out the back window. The bus looked great, but it had severe handling issues.
Some prototypes were built with heavier bottoms to address the tipping issue.
One of these prototypes is Pascal’s. According to Pascal, only about 50 of the 144 prototypes of this particular model are known to survive today.
Hot Wheels designers eventually redesigned the model. The version sold to the market in 1969 was wider and featured a surfboard on the side.
A red “Beach Bomb” prototype was appraised on an episode of PBS’s Antiques Roadshow in 2016 and was found to be worth US$100,000 – US$150,000.
Pascal owns four so-called rear-loader Beach Bomb prototypes, including this pink one.
According to him, each is worth at least US$25,000.
Pascal purchased the pink Beach Bomb after reading newspaper articles about it selling for $72,000 in 1999.
When the sale fell through, Pascal contacted the owner and bought the car for more than $50,000.
“That rear loader Volkswagen Beach Bomb, for collectors, it’s sort of like the Ferrari 250 GTO for real car collectors,” says another avid Hot wheels collector Mary Brisson.
One of the famous 1969 models is the Red Baron Hot Wheels. Due to that, I will give a brief introduction to the 1969 Red Baron Hot Wheels. If you want more information on the Volkswagen Beach Bomb, I already made a blog post about it here: Are Hot Wheels worth collecting?
How much is a 1969 Red Baron Hot Wheels worth?
The 1969 Red Baron Hot Wheels is the fifth most valuable Hot Wheels to date, worth more than $3,000. It is one of the most popular Hot Wheels and was even featured in the Toy Story film. The Red Baron was made due to the popularity of the Red Baron in the Peanuts cartoon.
There was a time when Snoopy’s imaginary battles with the Red Baron became popular in the “Peanuts” cartoon.
Because of its popularity, Monogram released a model kit featuring a stylized hot-rod with a German WWI infantry helmet (Pickelhaube) and an Iron Cross motif on the radiator in 1968.
Chuck Miller built a life-size working model of the car in1969, and Hot Wheels began producing a diecast version in 1970.
Interestingly, while the Hot Wheels version has fenders (mudguards in the UK), neither the Monogram kit nor Miller’s car does.
Mattel owned Monogram for a short time, and the Hot Wheels Red Baron was included as a bonus in some model kit boxes.
The Hot Wheels version, debuted in 1970, is one of the most popular and memorable Hot Wheels ever produced.
It was even seen in the Toy Story film, along with many other well-known toys.
The original version came with ‘Capped’ Redline wheels, ‘Spectraflame’ red paint, a pointed spike on the helmet, and a metal or rarer plastic ‘Collectors Button.’
The interior of some 1970 Red Barons has been discovered to be white rather than black.
Only a few of the 1970 Red Barons are known to exist, making them extremely rare.
They’ve either been found with a blank base or with the copyright information found on the regular release.
However, It’s still unclear if the release was a pre-production prototype or a tiny batch.
According to Michael Zarnock’s Warman’s Hot Wheels Field Guide: 3rd Edition (Values and Identification), the car is the fifth most valuable Hot Wheel to date, with an estimated value of $3,000 or more.
In the original packaging, no Red Barons with white interiors have been discovered yet.
Remember that the Red Baron has been re-released with a white interior, and these are NOT worth the price mentioned above.
Examples of Other 1969 Hot Wheels
This is the list of 24 releases of 1969 Hot Wheels.
1969 Hot Wheels
- Volkswagen Beach Bomb valued at $150,000- $175,000
- Twin Mill valued at $301- $350
- Turbo Fire valued at $351- $400
- Torero valued at $301-$350
- Splittin’ Image valued at $201 -$225
- Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow valued at $1301- $1500
- Mercedes-Benz 280SL valued at $76- $100
- Maserati Mistral valued at $251- $275
- CustomPolice Cruiser valued at $4001- $4400
- Custom Continental Mark III valued at $551- $600
- Custom Charger valued at $4801- $5200
- Custom AMX valued at $4801- $5200
- Classic ‘57 T-Bird valued at $401- $450
- Classic ’36 Ford Coupe valued at $401- $450
- Classic ’32 Ford Vicky valued at $351- $400
- Classic ’31 Ford Woody valued at $4801- $5200
1969 Grand Prix
- Brabham Repco F1 valued at $76-$100
- Chaparral 2G valued at $176- $200
- Ford MK IV valued at $201- $225
- Indy Eagle valued at $76- $100
- Lola GT70 valued at $601- $650
- Lotus Turbine valued at $51- $75
- McLaren M6A valued at $126- $150
- Shelby Turbine valued at $276 -$300
*Price depends on the color and country of origin.
Remember that numerous factors can affect the price, such as if the model is outside the box, mint condition, clean, oxidation-free, and many more. You can also do some things to make their price go up upon selling. If you want to know how I suggest you check my blog post here: Buying and Selling Guide for Diecast Models
Data for the Price of the 1969 Hot Wheels
|1969 Hot Wheels||Lowest Book Value||Highest Book Value||Average Price|
|Volkswagen Beach Bomb||$150,000.00||$175,000.00||$162,500.00|
|Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow||$1,301.00||$1,500.00||$1,400.50|
|Custom Continental Mark III||$551.00||$600.00||$575.50|
|Classic ‘57 T-Bird||$401.00||$450.00||$425.50|
|Classic ’36 Ford Coupe||$401.00||$450.00||$425.50|
|Classic ’32 Ford Vicky||$351.00||$400.00||$375.50|
|Classic ’31 Ford Woody||$4,801.00||$5,200.00||$5,000.50|
|Brabham Repco F1||$76.00||$100.00||$88.00|
|Ford MK IV||$201.00||$225.00||$213.00|
A little history on the 1969 Hot Wheels models
The Hot Wheels toy line has been a smashing success all around the world since its inception.
From 1968 on, the series disrupted the small diecast car model industry, forcing Matchbox and other competitors to rethink their concepts and scramble to recover lost ground.
Right now, Matchbox cars is a company under Mattel that also owns Hot Wheels. Despite being held by the same company, they still have some differences. You can find their difference in this blog post I’ve made: Hot Wheels vs. Matchbox.
The designer of the 1968 Hot Wheels models, Harry Bentley Bradley, didn’t foresee this and left Mattel to return to the automobile industry.
When the company asked him to return, he suggested a close friend, Ira Gilford.
Ira Gilford, who had recently left Chrysler, accepted the job of designing the next series of Hot Wheels models right away.
Ira Gilford designed some of the Hot Wheels’ most iconic vehicles, including the Twin Mill and Splittin’ Image.
The 1967 line’s success was further cemented in 1969 with the release of the first Hot Wheels cars.
This release established Hot Wheels’ position as the leading brand of small toy car models in the United States.
Splittin’ Image, Torero, Turbofire, and Twin Mill were part of Hot Wheels’ “Show & Go” series and were the company’s first original in-house designs.
“Only the things I love”
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So, here are the things I love when taking care of my Diecast Models.
Cleaning the Models
The first we are going to talk about is cleaning the models.
- Air Brush – For me, this is the best since it not just removes dust but you can use it in painting/clear coating.
- Air Duster – This is a good alternative to Airbrush
- Normal Brush – If you are short on budget, you can use a normal brush. However, make sure that the brush has soft bristles because there are some hard brushes than can cause scratches. That’s why I recommended a good brush that can do the job properly.
Cleaning and Shining Hacks
Well, here are some of my cleaning hacks for removing scratches, oxidation, and so much more.
- Removing Decal Adhesive – Use Goo Gone on those hard-to-remove decal adhesives. It works fast and works like charm!
- Waxing and Polishing – Here is something a lot of people don’t know. Waxing protects the clear coat and paint while polishing shines the model. Instead of buying it separately, use a 2 in 1 to save money. Get this instead.
- Beginner Wax – The wax I recommended earlier is good and provides the best results based on my experience. But a beginner might have a problem especially if they’re not good at applying wax. Solid wax reaching hard to reach surface can be hard to remove. You have two choices here. One is to use a qtips to reach those surfaces, another is to use a liquid wax I recommended.
- Cleaning Wheels, Rubber, Plastic – Do not forget that rubber and plastic surface are quite different, especially in the cleaning process. Just wiping it down won’t do the job. That’s why I use Meguiar’s Vinyl and Rubber Cleaner and Conditioner. Works like charm!
- Make the Wheels Shine! – Making our models look good won’t be complete without tiny details such as shiny wheels! Do not forget this because however small this is, the difference can be as big as night and day.
- Remove Scratches Easily – Tiny scratches are not the end for your model. Here is a simple trick I’ve been using to make my models look scratch-free even without repainting. Use T-Cut.
Painting the Models
Make sure when you paint models, have these ready.
- Tape – A tape is important if you are painting a straight line. Furthermore, it will prevent your paint to scatter on other parts. I recommend Tamiya Tape since it is really made for models. Furthermore, they stick really well preventing paint splatters.
- Brush (Beginner) – Find a good set of brushes to paint your models. Of course, you can opt for an airbrush but it’s quite expensive.
- Airbrush (Intermediate/Expert) – This will yield a significantly better result than an ordinary brush because you can easily spray the paint evenly. I recommend this if you know what you’re doing.
- Stand(Optional) – Stands are good because it can be hard to manually hold the models while painting. It is optional but in my opinion, the price is well worth it for the comfort it gives.
- Drop Cloths – Drop Cloths will protect your surroundings from the paint.
- Primer – The most common beginner mistake I see is painting models without any Primer. A primer will prevent imperfections such as bubbles or paint not sticking to your models. It is a small price to pay for quality results.
- Clear Coat – A clear coat will protect the paint of your models. This will make the paint last longer. Also, it is the one responsible for making your models shine.
Of course, you can’t do painting properly without paint. So here are the ones I recommend.
- Acrylic Paint – Good for beginners because it dries quickly. However, it doesn’t produce results as good as enamel paint.
- Enamel Paint – Provides a good quality finish and longer-lasting paint. However, it takes longer to dry and requires expertise to use.
- Simple Wood Cabinet – While it doesn’t let you display your models, wooden cabinets are good storage for these models. For one, they are not heat conductors which means that the temperature inside will remain constant and remain cool. Furthermore, they prevent light from reaching the models which can cause oxidation.
- Clear Cabinet with Lock – If you want to display your models, then I recommend this. It closes so dust won’t easily get to your models. I also recommend you don’t put more than 1 model in each compartment since metals are good conductors of heat.
So you want to show off your models to others? Well, I got you covered.
Here is my beginner-friendly model photography tutorial that teaches everything from taking pictures to the editing process.
You will also see me doing hands-on photography in that tutorial.